Terre di Piero – in the step of the traveling master – Piero della Francesca

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This is an invitation to the voyage. In the steps of Piero Della Francesca: humanist painter, Renaissance intellectual, master of light, symbols and perspective. Across a changing landscape of isolated churches, medieval towns and gentle slopes that Piero admired and immortalized during his pilgrimages in central Italy.

Inside Malatesta’s, Medici’s and Montefeltro’s palaces, which once hosted him and still guard his masterpieces, untouched by the passing of time. An opportunity to discover a breathtaking itinerary made of art, territory, history, culture and traditions.

Don’t hesitate. Let’s go.

My kind of place : Urbino

Urbino is the best-known city of Marche. This is not a place for a fleeting visit, but rather a careful exploration and review. You will slow down to savor the enthralling spirit of history that haunts the magnificent buildings of this city. The splendor of Urbino cannot be portrayed in words; instead, you must spend time wandering the ancient streets to acquire a true understanding of the city’s history.

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With picturesque stone dwellings scattered along charming city streets and the celebrated Ducal Palace dominating its skyline, Urbino encompasses all that is classic Italy. Urbino is home to many art treasures and Renaissance monuments, including Piero della Francesca’s Ideal City and Raphael‘s ornate house. The cultural beauty within the city walls is rivaled only by the magnificence of the region’s surrounding mountains and valleys.

Start at the Piazza Duca Federico by the neo-classical style Cathedral which contains fine paintings by Federico Barocci. Discover the house of Raffaello, the church of St. Domenico, the university, and the Oratories of Santa Croce and St. Giovanni Battista. Finally, continue on to the Ducal Palace, the greatest jewel in town. Built for Federico da Montefeltro by architect Luciano Laurana and Francesco di Giorgio Martini, it is a masterpiece of Renaissance art.

Modern Urbino is above all a lively university town. The Universita’ degli Studi, it is one of the largest private institutions in the country. In Urbino, the students outnumber the general population.

A traveler can also use Urbino as a base for excursions to the towns and villages throughout the northern part of Marche, towns as serene and lovely as those in Tuscany although less known.

Botanical Garden (Orto Botanico)

A delightful stop is the Orto Botanico, a small, walled botanic garden full of rare plants. The shade is welcome, and this is one of the few places in Urbino where there are no paintings. The entrance is in Via Bramante.

Duke’s Palace (Palazzo Ducale)

The palace facade, overlooking the hills, consists of three tiers of balconies between two slender towers. The decorative trim is of Dalmatian limestone that hardens to look like marble. To enter it today, you’ll need to go around to the back through the Cortile d’Onore. Much of the palace interior is occupied by the Galleria Nazionale delle Marche, a splendid collection whose finest works were originally the property of Duke Federico.

Marche National Gallery (Galleria Nazionale delle Marche)

Galleria Nazionale delle Marche is Urbino’s most important museum. The museum showcases paintings from the 14th through the 17th centuries and is housed in the Ducal Palace, which was built by Duke Federico da Montefeltro. He had the palace built to symbolize the military power of the sovereign and to celebrate freedom and culture. Accompanied by his wife, Federico invited some of the most famous and appreciated artists of the time to his court, including Bramante, Paolo Uccello, Leon Battista Alberti, Piero della Francesca, and Raphael.

Piero della Francesca’s Flagellation is perhaps the best-known work in Urbino. The same room contains Piero’s Madonna di Senigallia, another superb work. Other works not to miss: Crucifixion by Antonio Alberti de Ferrara, the Annunciation by Vicenzo Pagani, La Muta and St. Catherine of Alexandra, by Raphael, and also fine works by Luca della Robbia, Giavanni Santi (Raphael’s dad), Carlo Crivelli, Verrocchio, and Alvise Vivarini. The Spanish artist Pedro Berruguete contributes the famous Portrait of Duke Federico.

Raphael’s House

To some, no festival can be as exciting as the experience of setting foot into Raphael’s house. Born there in 1483, Raphael grew up with a remarkable father: painter, poet, and teacher Giovanni Santi. It is said that the father and son used to sit on a big rock outside their house where they would prepare painting colors together. Today the house is a museum and is filled with paintings, manuscripts. and original furnishings from the 15th-century. The room where Raphael was born is embellished by the beautiful fresco Madonna with Child, reputed to have been made by the artist at a very young age.

San Bernardino degli Zoccolanti Church

As you leave Urbino (a pleasant half-hour walk from the west of town), pause to pay your last respects at the tombs of Duke Federico and his son, Guidobaldo, in the fine church of San Bernardino. The church was built in 1491 by Francesco di Giorgio Martini and stands on the hill above the junction for the Pesaro road, just follow the signs.

Urbino and its surrounding hills provide a great landscape for walks, though the streets can be quite steep. Urbino can also be used as a base for excursions to the towns and villages in the rolling hills and mountains of the northern portion of Le Marche, towns as serene and lovely as those in Tuscany, although less known. Some of the most enchanting landscapes lie in Montefeltro. Far from the beaten track, it is studded with remarkable rocky crags, each crowned by a castle.

The greatest small painting in the world

The Flagellation of Christ (probably 1455–1460) is a painting by Piero della Francesca in the Galleria Nazionale delle Marche in Urbino, Italy. Called by one writer an “enigmatic little painting,” the composition is complex and unusual, and its iconography has been the subject of widely differing theories. Kenneth Clark placed The Flagellation in his personal list of the best ten paintings, calling it ‘the greatest small painting in the world’.

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In the older part of Urbino, down a curving alleyway lined with history-holding bricks, sits a small unassuming piazza. Now home to a daycare center, the piazza and its crumbling white pillars would be easy to miss on the way to the pizza parlor further along the street. But Andrea Aromatico, a local journalist, claims this spot is the key to a locked part of Urbino’s history. Without hesitation, he announces that it is, in fact, the location of Piero Della Francesca’s famous and mysterious painting, La Flagellazione di Cristo.

“Urbino has two histories,” says Aromatico, “one that you can see with your eyes and one that is under cover. This undercover one is the real history of Urbino.” As part of that undercover history, La Flagellazione di Cristo has long puzzled scholars, art historians, and the people of Urbino.

La Flagellazione di Cristo now hangs in a dim room in the Palazzo Ducale. The painting was famous in the Renaissance as a demonstration of Della Francesca’s technical skills in perspective. The unusual choice of a low viewpoint, striking colors, strange interior lighting, and contemporary figures all contribute to what is, even now, a disturbing picture. It is considered a Renaissance painting, yet it does not fit the style. It has a lightness, a third dimension that draws a viewer in. Mathematicians have found that Della Francesca was so meticulous in his perspective that the entire scene can be recreated by modern-day architects. Despite its perfect dimensions, the meaning, the purpose, and even the subjects remain a mystery.

There are currently three interpretations of La Flagellazione di Cristo, called the conventional, the dynastic, and the political-theological. Most debated are the identities of the three figures in the foreground.

According to the conventional theory, the three figures represent a murdered Duke of Urbino, Oddantonio da Montefeltro, standing between two of his advisors, Manfredo dei Pio and Tommaso di Guido dell’Agnello. The dynastic interpretation holds that the painting was commissioned by Federico, Oddantonio’s half-brother and successor, and the figures are simply Federico’s predecessors. The political-theological take says that the figure in the middle is an angel attempting to join the Latin and Orthodox church represented by the two men on either side.

The latest interpretation lies within the pages of Aromatico’s book, La Flagellazione. Il romanzo, i codici, il mistero (The Flagellation: The novel, the codes, the mystery).

Andrea Aromatico uses his iPad to visualize the painting Flagellazione di Cristo in the present day pizza. If his theory is correct, the piazza could be more than 1600 years old.

Aromatico argues that the three figures are Oddantonio and two of Federico’s closest advisors. But these identities make sense only if the scene is in Urbino, and that is the key to Aromatico’s interpretation. As an Urbino native, he says that his familiarity with the town has allowed him “to imagine the painting as no one has ever before.”

Aromatico has matched the architectural features of the former piazza on Via Valerio to those in the painting. Others assumed the perspective-perfect setting was fictional, even idealized. But Aromatico says the specificity of the location in Urbino means that the painting also depicts events in Urbino.

Aromatico believes Duke Federico da Montefeltro commissioned the work to decorate the tomb in the Palazzo Ducale of his half-brother, Oddantonio. Many believe Federico played a role in Oddantonio’s death. But Aromatico says Federico had this painting made to show that he was not a murderer, but a protector. He may indeed have had Oddantino killed, but he did so to save the city of Urbino from Oddantino’s destructive ways.

Aromatico’s interpretation holds that Oddantonio is the figure in red robes, standing in the center of the trio. He is positioned like the Christ figure in the background, suggesting a comparison. Aromatico says Federico wanted to show that his brother’s death was necessary for Urbino, just as Christ’s death was necessary for humanity. We [humans] do everything to understand and to discover something. I think that this is the real meaning of life.

Urbino natives and tourists alike view the painting in the Palazzo Ducale on a daily basis. Most walk by too quickly to grasp the perspective. Yet some linger, engrossed by the dimensions of Flagellazione di Cristo

In Aromatico’s view, the figures on either side of Oddantonio are advisors close to Federico: Cardinal Bessarion stands to Oddantonio’s right in a maroon robe and hat, and to the left in the blue robe stands astrologer and sorcerer Ottavio Ubaldini della Carda. Aromatico speculates that they both had a role in Oddantonio’s death. The allusions to alchemy in the painting, he says, support this idea—allusions such as the black circle beneath Christ’s feet and the golden statue of Apollo holding a silver object. The background is not simply a flagellation scene, says Aromatico, but a portrayal of an alchemist scheme used to kill Oddantonio.

This part of the puzzle, Aromatico believes, is necessary to solve the La Flagellazione di Cristo. “If you can solve this equation you have in your hand an algorithm that can resolve all the mystery in Urbino history.”

Aromatico has spent his life, literally, in search of the meaning of the painting. “It was tradition for my family to have breakfast outside on Saturdays,” says Aromatico. “We would then take a walk through the Palazzo Ducale and see the painting.” The painting always fascinated him: “We [humans] do everything to understand and to discover something. I think that this is the real meaning of life. When you eat new food, drink something new or even make love it is a way for us to search and find new things. A picture becomes successful when it is mysterious. Everyday is a new discovery and the same thing goes for this picture.”

Standing in the 1,600-year-old piazza, Aromatico points first to an image of La Flagellazione on his iPad, then to the features he thinks support his theory. “As a journalist,” he says, “my duty is to see facts, make an analysis, and then tell the story in a simple way.”

A guide to Le Marche Museums and Art Galleries

A league table of the most important museums and art galleries in the Marche, giving three stars to the most important places, two for those worth a visit, and one to those places worth seeing if you happen to be nearby.

In general all but the biggest are open only in the morning until 1 or 2pm. Monday is the usual day when they are closed (except Urbino’s Palazzo Ducale which is open 7 days a week). Note that the local museums in smaller towns are apt to have erratic opening times – sometimes you may even have to hunt out the key.

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  • Urbino – The Palazzo Ducale – the Voyager favourite. World class Italian renaissance art, including two of Piero della Francesca’s finest pictures and a gorgeous portrait by Raphael, in the spectacular setting of the Ducal Palace. The palace also houses a fascinating archeological collection mostly of Roman tablets. Best of all it now boasts extended opening times – 9am to 7pm Tues-Sun, and 9am to 2pm Mondays.
  • Raphael’s House, also in Urbino, has been preserved much as it was when he was born here in 1483. But you will only find one work, with a dodgy attribution, that might have been by the young artist – a fresco of the Madonna.
  • Jesi – The Pinacoteca Comunale in Palazzo Pianetti. A quirky choice this gallery is housed in a florid rococo palazzo. The outstanding treasures are a handful of pictures by Lorenzo Lotto, the Venetian painter who spent much of his working life in the Marche.
  • Fabriano – Museo della Carta. Fabriano is famous for its paper and this specialized modern museum is surprisingly fascinating. You can even see demonstrations of hand-made papermaking.
  • Ancona – You will find the best collection of the Marche’s archeological heritage at the Museo Nazionale Archeologico.

Madonna col Bambino Carlo Crivelli  1480 Ancona

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  • Ancona – Alongside paintings by Crivelli, Titian, Andrea del Sarto and Il Pomarancio, are works by outstanding Marche painters such as Barocci and Guerrieri.
  • Ascoli Piceno – A rich collection mainly by painters who lived and worked in this part of the Marche (including Crivelli) but also works of Titian, Tintoretto, Guido Reni and Guercino.
  • Recanati – Villa Colloredo-Mels, on the edge of town, houses a handful of Lorenzo Lotto’s finest pictures including a haunting Annunciation.
  • Pesaro – the Museo Civico has two delights: a beautiful altarpiece by Bellini and a remarkable collection of painted Renaissance ceramics.
  • Also in Pesaro is the house where Rossini was born with a growing collection of memorabilia.
  • Loreto – The Museum of the Holy House, as well as plenty on the traditions of Loreto, also has some pictures by Lorenzo Lotto – the artist spent his last years here.

Mystical marriage of Santa Caterina, 1400 Lorenzo Salimbeni

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  • San Severino – In the Pinacoteca Civica are some sparkling pictures by the Salimbeni brothers, the Marche’s under-appreciated early Renaissance painters.
  • Macerata – The Museo del Risorgimento is the best in the region dedicated to the Unification of Italy.
  • Fano – The Malatesta Museum and Gallery has some nice surprises for such a small local collection. Great building, as well.
  • Fabriano – The town was one of the great centres for the International Gothic style of 14thC painting and the Pinacoteca Comunale has some good examples. None however by the town’s greatest master, Gentile da Fabriano.
  • Urbania – A pleasing collection in the museum in the fine old Palazzo Ducale including great examples of the 15thC maiolica ware for which the town was famous.
  • Castelfidardo – The Museo Internazionale della Fisarmonica is dedicated to the accordion.
  • Mondavio – the waxwork museum in the fortress gives a waxen idea of daily life in medieval times; great for the kids.